Compass found

There's one notable thing about Brussels. People here are as relaxed as they are bureaucratic. Strangely enough, this makes for an interesting combination. The amount of administrative documentation required to work with and around the EU institutions is insane, but everything is so organized, systemized, people are so helpful and nice, you don't even feel it. I haven't queued for more than 5 minutes, not once. Then again, I didn't see it all, did I.

But they are quite chilled. The Australians* of Europe, said a colleague of mine, Australian himself. That crossed my mind.

Though I did meet the most stressed out of Brusselians tonight. The efficient real estate agent Emmanuel. We saw two places. One near Place Brugman, epicenter of the expat neighborhood, in a beautiful old house. Wooden floors, high ceilings, original mouldings... All the sidewalks are paved. The present tenant is leaving it to move in with his girlfriend and was sorry to go, gave me a good feeling. The second was a gigantic place near the University, across the street from the Ixelles cemetery. We then went for a beer - Orval, one of the five beers produced by trappist monks - in bar Le Tavernier not too far from there. A fun place, with live music from time to time.

Emmanuel adores his Brussels. Knows it inside out. He calls it a sleeping beauty, quiet at first sight, with quite a lot going on below the surface. He recommended moving around during the week, change neighborhoods to appreciate the atmosphere of the town. The University, Châtelain, Flagey, among other areas. For lunch, brunch and the best all-you-can-eat buffet (35 euros a person include as much lobster as you can stuff down your throat), the Conrad Hotel (where I was lucky enough to stay last October for work). La Bécasse, one of the oldest restaurants in the University area, he said. La Quincaillerie, former hardware store, a great place to take your parents near Châtelain. Le Macaron, on Châtelain, for some private time with someone.

For clubbing, he mentioned Fuse (excellent sound in a dodgy area, take care when you leave at 5am, but they might not let you in with sneakers). Mirano Continental - for regulars, near Madou. I know this is where they hold the Dirty Dancing nights. Galerie Louise, in the lower ground level of the shopping center. Too posh, but great music.

But "Brussels is a village", he added. For fashion and for partying without being recognized (he was married twice, has two teenage kids and we suspect that he's gay), go to Antwerp. Noted.

Seeing him tomorrow again for a cosy little place near Brugman.

Something to read before I go.

* Talking about Australia, here's a bit of Melbourne cool. From Y.